Design cooperation with KKM leprosy colonies

KKM is constituted of four leprosy colonies where about 160 people live overall. Three of the colonies are situated in and around Dheradun and one is in Rishikesh in Uttarakhand, north India. The people live and work in the colonies. They make yarn from cotton or wool. From that they weave and sew textile products like carpets, bags, accessories, pillow cushions, table cloths and more.

The designer, Subhabrata Sadhu, and Noel Das that is one of the administration staff at KKM discuss about what is appropriate for KKM according to design development. .

At first there was some plans that KKM would from raw material produce fabrics that Tibetan Women Center and Deykiling Handicraft Center would use do to make products of. In this way IM Fair Trades supplier groups could be connected with eachother and create job opportunities fo eachother. The discussions between IM, KKM and the designer revealed an uncertainty about the idea to put the responsibility on KKM, which have an output which can be quite irregular. It was agreed that there was no need to chain the suppliers to eachother when a possible delay of KKM would affect the other two suppliers.

However, we looked around at KKM's store where there are lots of textiles. Subhabrata considered that part of it in stock would be appropriate and that this would be good for all parties if it could be used.

- Since they already have some nice fabrics I plan to use their fabric to develop a range of bags and accessories with TWC. Apart from that I intend to design some scarves, cushion covers and tablecloths with them, says Subhabrata Sadhu.


Some of KKM:s artisans.

According to the designer they have their strengths in good skill, good understanding of design and aesthetic, good product with lot of potential in the market and a good production facilitys. The weakness that is facing with KKM is a lack of motivation, lack of young weavers who can produce as per deadline and can work more when required, low time commitment (people work as per their will), unwillingness to improve and work as per order and lack of raw material and stock management.


Some of KKM:s weavers.

Three fabrics were selected from KKM and taken to TWC that sewed two bags and a smaller toilet bag to test the quality and suitability. One of the fabrics was a thin fabric that may be suitable for slightly thinner garments.

/Lilian

Design development cooperation with Tibetan artisan groups

Tibetan Women Center (TWC) and Deykiling Handicraft Center (DHC) both creates job opportunities for Tibetan refugees, mainly women. The design project in cooperation between the designer, Sadhu Subhabrata, IM Fair Trade and the suppliers (TWC and DHC) will affect TWC:s tailoring section, DHC:s weaver and tailoring sections.

The designer, Sadhu, Tsering Youdon (IM Fair Tradecoordinator) and me (IM Fair Trade volunteer) visited the suppliergroups to look at the materials and discuss plans with the managers; Kalsang Wangdu for DHC and Ngodup Wasser for TWC.


Ngdodup Wasser, manager at TWC to the left and Kalsang Wangdu, manager for DHC discussing design development.

So what is planned for these two groups?
The manager of DHC was in favor of new design and the project but was a bit worried about the cost of developing products. It was decided that the yarn and wool in stock should as far as possible be used, it is both faster and cheaper.


Fabric that is weaved at DHC and used for Tibetan jackets and two of the weavers at DHC.

- I plan to develop some new weaves by changing minor loom setting and develop some scarves if possible. Since their fabric is expensive I plan to buy fabric from the market and then use their fabric as accents to develop bags and accessories. I also plan to develop table runners and cushions in their technique of weaving. I will also try to work on some patchwork with them by using their fabric or fabric from outside, says Sadhu about the plans for DHC.


The tailoring section at Tibetan Women Center.

- For TWC we will work on some stitching techniques to create surface and then develop bags and accessories and baby clothes. Some fabric will be procured from the market and rest of the fabrics will be procured from KKM. Techniques will include quilting, patch work and frayed edge appliqué, says Sadhu.

- I focus on two things when it comes to TWC, new fresh design, but they must retain their own identity on them, it should be noticed that they are from here, Sadhu describes.

The main market for TWC and DHC is Tibetan hence it is very important to preserve the Tibetan design in any way in any product. They both also have a small export market and Subhabrata Sadhu planning to design products that might work on an export market.

- There must be a combination of preserving what is good from what already exists and bring new ideas, a mixture of traditional and modern, says Sadhu.

Subhabrata Sadhu says that it is as important for both the groups to maintain and give expression to the Tibetan culture and design of products. However, he talked about reducing the amount of colors and patterns for making accessories and products that can go home to a wider market. The apron by the fabric and other textiles used in Tibetan jackets may be details on the products and combined with more neutral colors.

Strengths and weakness according from a designers point of view
I ask Sadhu to state the suppliers strengths and weakness that can affect their work and design.

- DHC:s strengts is that they have good stitching and weaving skill, a good understanding of quality and colour sense, a positive attitude and a willingness to learn and change. Their weakness is that the productline is expensive, they have limited techniques and lack of dedicated staff to work all the year round.


Tashi Dolma, Tsering Youdon, Subhabrata Sadhu and Ngdoup Wasser looking at the loom and aprontextiles at TWC.

- TWC:s strengts is that they have a positive attitude, a willingness to learn and change, have medium stitching skills and entrepreneurial quality. Their wekness on the other hand is that they have no committed workers to work all the year round, stitching skills is not upto the mark for high end products, they have limited products and a ethnic look of the products, says Sadhu.

One problem with DHC and also for TWC is that the artisans leave their work at the centers for three or four months, usually from September to October, to sell ready-made garment that provides more income. This demands that the collection of samples of the new products must be finished before then, to avoid the project will be on the ice for many months. If the samples can be made in time, the products can be marketed and those who are still at work at the centers can begin the production.

The project plans to start running as soon as possible when Subhabrata Sadhu is finished with the design of the products to the suppliers.

- However there are bound to be many trials before we finalise techniques and choose the right products which can be made easily, he states.

Text by Lilian Sahlin, IM-SOIR Fair Trade volunteer 2010

Capacity building in terms of design development!

The third WFTO Fair Trade principle is about capacity building of which one branch is design development. For that reason IM Fair Trade have started a collaboration with a designer, Subhatra Sadhu, that should work with three of IM Fair Trades suppliers; KKM, Tibetan Women Center (TWC) and Deykiling Handicraft Center (DHC).


The designer that IM Fair Trade started to work with, Subhatra Sadhu.

- The artisans needs guidance in quality improvement, appropriate technology improvement and proper working environment. Many Fair Trade organizations ignore this and fails in successful marketing. That leads to that the artisans is not provided with a sustainable livelihood, claims the freelance textile designer Subhatra Sadhu.

Sadhu have eight years experience in his field and graduated from Govt College of Fine arts in Chennai and National Institute of design. He have been working with NGO:s that works with livelihood developing programe related to textile industry, artisans supported by development organizations and also worked for high end export companys and boutiques.

From his work in commercial business he learned the importance of quality and time in the craftsector.

- The artisans were working an absolute commercial establishment but I found that many handloom weavers and weaver’s co-operative societies were happy working for the company because of their excellent marketing skills. The two things that were stressed on and were enforced by the company were adherence to quality and time. If these two conditions were met the artisans were never denied their share of profit. And the fact that these were upmarket products sold at a high price in the international market, Sadhu states.

He also worked with three Fair Trade organizations previously as he see as a good experience, even though he does not see any big difference between Fair Trade artisans and non Fair tTade artisans at a grass root level.

- Often Fair Trade and non Fair Trade oganizations can have the same supplier. The rates in weaving and handwork is more or less standardized. The thing that vary the most between organizations is the quality on the products and the intensity of the work, that affects the wages. The basic problem for the artisans is not often low wages but the lack of regular work, Sadhu states.

He also states an opinion that Fair Trade organization in general work too little with product development.
- The process have to follow skill development for artisans, efficient market research have to be done and then design development. Often attempts are made to quickly to market artisans product to earn quick money, Sadhu thinks.

The positive side of Fair Trade Sadhu states is that it gets allot of publicity that leads to that consumers in different countries get more aware of traditional crafts, working conditions and the financially weak status of craftspeople. Fair Trade can lead to a higher appreciation of crafts and then generate higher wages at an artisan level and also that the artisans can get the opportunity to travel and interact with buyers directly. With the close interaction between Fair trade organization and the artisans the artisans can get direct exposure to contemporary markets trends, colors and consumer trends. Barely by just having a Fair Trade certificate leads to empowerment and some kind of accountability that the principles are being followed.

- The Fair Trade guidelines also evoked some conscience in the traders working with marginalized artisans and now are more sensitive to their plight, Sadhu states.

One other problem in craftsector connected with Fair Trade is that the orders for the artisans can be very irregular, that also was discussed at Fair Trade Forum Indias work-shop about fair wages.
- Many artisans in the craftsector is not serious about their livelihood. This can be due to an uncertain view on the sector due to lack of work and sustainability that forced them into other, less skilled, livelihood to support themselves, Sadhu states.

As as designer Sadhu ensure certain criteria while working with artisans groups as such as:

• That the design is easily understood.
• That the design and product can be made by the artisans.
• That it takes reasonable time to make the product.
• Time managment and quality have to be stressed as important parameters.
  
• The raw materials have to be easily available.
  
• Each craft have to retain the identity that makes it unique and stand out in the market.
• There should be an understanding of the market.
  

- While working with Fair Trade groups it is important to look at the time it takes to make each product, the cost of the product have to be justified and the wage have to be fair accordingly. Fair Trade can create a false threshold level for the wages that is not adequate for the artisans, so it is important to look at the wages, Sadhu describes.

- Fair Trade organizations have to work continuous with product development and marketing to attract costumers. The craft have to be market as handmade crafts because it is impossible to compete with the price for bulk suppliers and machine made merchandisers, states Sadhu.

The designer, Sadhu, IM:s Fair Tradecoordinator Tsering Youdon and myself met each producer organization in the design project to check with them the available materials and plan the work.

Text and interview made by Lilian Sahlin, Fair Trade volunteer for IM-SOIR 2010.

Training for CUDP artisans on the cards!

We meet different people through the internet. And I am not talking about the social network that’s available galore!

Recently when I wanted for CUDP (Recycled Paper Project) to find ways to increase their range of products, I ended up finding Jenny in Bangaluru (Which is in South India) on the internet. I was so taken away with her website (www.jennypinto.com) and their range of products that I asked if she could develop some designs for CUDP which she readily agreed. She knew about Tibetan cause and a supporter too which also proved helpful.

We also came to know that we need to develop the paper quality in order to boost more markets both domestic and international. Even though there has been no question regarding CUDP artisans’ efficiency in their work or product quality; it’s not very often that they are exposed to other market places or trainings.

CUDP being one of our suppliers, our responsibility is to provide assistance in finding organizations or institutions providing training to improve paper quality. So, it’s still on the cards. Jenny is also providing us suggestions. We will see what’s the best option and how and in what ways CUDP can contribute in terms of resources - human and monetary. Because at times, it is always preferable to have producer organization be responsible and accountable.

/Tsering Youdon

A date is now set for a work-shop about fair trade for the artisans!

The 6:th and 7:th august is IM-SOIR arranging a work-shop about fair trade for the producer groups artisans. A woman that previously held work-shops for the producer groups administration, Mrs. Alka, is going to lead the work-shop. She is trained by Fair Trade Forum- India.

Questions and discussions concerning the ten fair trade principles, the purpose of fair trade, responsibilities, accountability, wages, information about costumers of the products, benefits provided by the producer organizations, occupational and health safety is what we see is important to have on the schedule.

It is not fixed which groups and how many artisans can attend, but we will discuss that in Delhi when we attend to the work-shop about fair wages.

/Lilian and Youdon

Calculation of Living Wage

When I recently tried to calculate fair wages taking into account the living wage of each artisans, I also wrote to world of good organization with the hope that they will provide me with some tools to carry this out.

And I received a response from them mentioning about not having any specific software to fair wage.

They wrote saying that they will update me if anything comes up.

I could not link their website....so anyone interested please visit www.worldofgood.org.

Happy weekend!
/Youdon

How to assess if a group or organization is "fair"?

It pops up many thoughts in my head related to my work as a volunteer/trainee for IM-SOIR with focus on fair trade. I have thought allot of how to assess and how to judge whether an organization is working satisfactory with the ten principles of fair trade. There is a lot of things to keep track of, and although some of the organizations/groups have a close connection and a work allot with some of the principles, they have their weaknesses in others, and as everyone knows: your strength is defined by your weakest link. It can be difficult to know what to priority in the work, and also to have knowledge of how conditions have to be to be seen as "fair".

Youdon now works primarily with a design project, fair wages and planning a workshop about fair trade for the producer groups artisans. Design is very important, no trade can exist without a market for the products, no matter how well the organization perform in other areas. Regarding fair wages is also difficult to know what is a "fair" wage. It should be a wage that is enough to support themselves and their children. Many organizations have low wages, but most also have benefits such as free housing, water, electricity, get their childrens education paid, etc. That means that the wages can be low, but it can still be sufficient to support themselves. I discussed with Wangchuk Gyalpo (regional director for SOIR-IM Asia) yesterday about wages and he mentioned that the wages should be at least two dollars per day, ie exceed one of the common used definitions of poverty. Youdon and I will attend to a workshop organized by Fair Trade Forum-India (FTF-I) on fair wages next week. I'm no expert on wages and economy and to complicate it further, I am relatively new in India with a foreign currency. I see it as an interesting challenge and experience to take part of how the discussions goes, and also try to find out how other organizations involved with fair trade works with wages.

Today I read through "SFTMS Baseline Assessment Manual" (SFTS = Sustainable Fair Trade Management System) which is a new (2009) international standard published by WFTO for certification of organizations working with and towards the Fair Trade principles. The manuals main objective is to assess compliance with fair trade principles and continually identify areas for improvement. In India, FTF-I selected ten organizations to a pilot project to see how the manual works in practice. A meeting was planned to evaluate how the work with the manual has been going in the organizations in late July but may have been slightly postponed according to Youdon. I do not know about other countries and organizations done something similar with this material, anyone else that know something about that?

The manual is careful to emphasize that the attitude towards organizations should be friendly, straightforward and transparent and that there are no right or wrong and that the manual should used as a basis for evaluation and improvements for organizations. They also provide suggestions on possible methods:

* Pre-screening of the organization and its work with fair trade principles.
* Organization Chart which describes the hierarchy of the organization and how many employees there is in the organization and on which positions.
* Employees and producer feedback. Input from employees must be collected which can be done through interviews, forms and questionnaires that can be anonymous if the employed wish that.
* Production Flow Chart to view the production process from raw material to finished product.
* An environmental survey in which environmental and health risks are identified. Areas as water consumption, waste water disposal, storage of chemicals, energy consumption, waste management, pollution risks and accidents is seen as essential to document.
* A comprehensive assessment have to be done. It can be done by a scoring point system how well the organization is working in various areas. Also plans and program for continuous improvement, time-frame for action, and to clearly define who is responsible for the implementation of the improvements is a vital part of the work.

The methods is quite similar to an environmental management system and how a systematic work to reduce risk for health and environment can proceed in Sweden, which I am more familiar with after my degree in environment and health. As long as the method is used carefully and the organizations take it seriously and do the job that is needed I think it can be a powerful tool to assess how organizations work. It is an important step for the fair trade principle that concerns accountability, transparency and promote fair trade. Is the material presented in public, it can provide a closer relationship and a security to consumers that the products originated from a place that is actively engaged in fair trade and to improve themselves!

Youdon and I discussed to make a brief version of assessment on Dharamsala Paper Factory in August according to some of the methods suggested in the manual, we will see how that goes!

Lilian Sahlin, volunteer/trainee for IM-SOIR

Workshop on Fair Wage Policy on July 30th, 2010 by FTF-I

As per the emerging need expressed by the members, Fair Trade Forum – India is organizing a one day brainstorming workshop on “ Fair Wage Policy for unorganized sector in India: Issues & challenges for FTOs”.

In this regard, Fair Trade Forum – India is planning to do a brainstorm with a few Fair trade practitioners, experts and researchers on 30th July 2010 to take the initial steps in this direction.

The overall objective of this workshop is to create opportunity for dialogue to understand the ground realities in which Fair trade organizations are working and also to evolve practical and sustainable ways and means to effectively implement Fair wage policy by Fair trade organizations. As an outcome of the workshop, a policy brief will be prepared and circulated to members for suggestions and recommendations. It is also proposed to conduct a field survey with few FTOs. Detailed program will be mailed to members in next few days.

Fair Trade Forum-India
National Network for Fair Trade in India

Views from Recycled Paper Manager, Dharamsala

Recycled Paper

I won't be able to draw any conclusion about the same as I still haven't receive the final analyzed report from Mr. Pankaj ji. But having the time spent with him, I found that only in some cases, the expenditure exceeded the total income of the family and that was mainly in the cases of artisans holding family of more than 3 children. Because the major expenses were on the children’s' school fees, clothing and entertainment. Other than that, even Mr. Pankaj ji agreed that the wages given to the artisans are up to the mark according to one of the principle- Fair Wages" of the "Fair Trade".

Once I receive the report from Mr. Pankaj ji after completing his analysis, I shall send you a report based on my introspection of the final report received from Mr. Pankaj ji.

Tsering Phuntsok,

Manager of Clean Upper Dharamsala Paper Project

Views from Manager of Lungta Products

Lungta Product

Mr. Pankaj has visit our organization and he asked question to our artisan about their education, family back ground, insurance policy and saving and monthly income and expenditure.
It was a very good experience to them and for me too. Which means saving is most important things in our life to improve once livelihood. Most of them are having family and to save little amount of money from our salary is very important, which Mr. Pankaj also advice some of artisan to save money from salary for their future.
His visit is really grateful for us, Thank you.

With Best Wishes,
Kunsang
Manager of Lungta Products, Dharamsala

Feed-back from managers

Since Mr Pankaj visited both Lungta and Dharamsala Paper Factory and discussed fair wages we got some feed-back in mail that we publish.

From a farmer life in Nepal to a loom in north India

Dolly Devi is from the countryside in Nepal, her family supported themselves as farmers and she have never went to school. Her family consisted of her parents, brothers and one sister. In the age of around 15 she started to have trouble with her hands, she loosed touch and they also got stiff. Leprosy. Her father send her to some relatives in Punjab, India, were she was given some treatment for about six months. From there her family and relatives arranged a marriage with a man who also hade leprosy. The man lived and worked at KKM in Dheradun so she also moved to KKM.

Since then, for about 30 years ago, she have been working and living at KKM. The first year she worked with the first steps to make the yarn from cotton. After that she was tought to weave on the loom and have been working with that since then. She had no working experience expect working on the familys farm so this was totally new for her and she learnt the new job step by step.

Lilian and Dolly Devi at KKM.

- I liked the place immediatly when I came, she says.

She and her husband got three children, two daughters and one son, which all have moved out now. One of the daughters are married, the son is studying. They come to visit sometimes. Dolly does not remember how long time ago she got married and moved to KKM but it must be almost 30 years soon she says beacuse she have a daughter that is around 27 years old.

An ordinary day Dolly Devi gets up and prepare breakfast which is often chai (tea) and bread. After that she starts to work, in the summertime 7.30 am to 11.30 and then a lunch break to 1.30 pm and ends the day at 17.00 pm. On the wintertime the working schedual are from 8.00 am to 11.30 with a lunch break then from 1.00 pm to 4.30 pm. The lunch is prepared by themselves in the home. They work full days monday to friday and half day on saturday.

- I am happy here and that we get everything that is necessary, house, food, a work, the childrens school fees and some pocket money, says Dolly.

I ask her if there is any improvements she would like to see in the colony and if she see herself stay there also in the future.

- No, what would that be, my loom is were it is and I can not move it, she says laughing but in a sense of confussion by what I mean. Loss in translation or just satisfied, that I can not judge.

-And Where else would I go?, She says smiling to the question if she see herself stay in the colony.

Text by: Lilian Sahlin Translation by: Noel Das Photos by: Youdon Tsering

Fair trade is a good thing, states Noel from KKM leprosy colony.

- Fair trade is a good thing, it promotes a good working environment for the workers and help the workers to get e decent life and it also gives a better environment, states Noel Das that is working and living at KKM.

Noel Das at KKM leprosy colony in Dheradun.

Noel says he does not have a specific job at KKM, by post he is vice chairman.

- But you can call me assistant manager. I work with different things in the office, work as an assistant for Mr Romal Singh (president of KKM) organizing orders, distribute the work between the artisans and take care of documents and parcels for the export, he says in a good english.

Noel have participated in two work-shops about fair trade arranged by Youdon Tsering and IM. I ask if the society have gone through any changes since they got to know about fair trade and it´s principles.

- Basically, we implemented the principles already since the past even though we did not know of the work as principles so we have not done any major changes, Noel explains.

- IM have been with us since the start of KKM leprosy society and we know each other well. They buy or products, give support for the children and the elderly and if we need any help of some kind we can always ask for help from IM and they can give us support and ideas, says Noel about the contact with IM.

40 percentage of KKM:s money to support the society comes from their own production, the rest is from different donors, both organizations and individuals.

Some of KKM:s products.

Noel had completed his education, he had 12 years of schooling in a boarding school in Dheradun and then got mechanical training. During his training he got some patches on his skin, that often is the first visible signs for leprosy and then some loss of sensation. He found out that he had leprosy and got some medicine but it did not respond properly and Noel got worse.

- My hands became weak and the loss of sensation increased and I did not know what to do, he tells.

That is the reason he first came to KKM leprosy center in December 1999.

- I was not able to work because my weak hands and less and less sensation,he describes and shows descriptive how his hands were affected.

- And who will feed me then? He asks like an open question.

Noel shows his right hand and tell me that he had a operation that reconstructed some parts of the hand.

- It looks okey and it works satisfactory but the things that is gone is gone, the loss of sensation and the nerves that is gone will not come back, he says.

You can not tell by looking at Noel that he had leprosy, if you not look very close at his hand. He is lucky in that sense, many of the people living here have visible damages by the disease and have loss toes, fingers and other body parts.

Noel is married. His wife is also affected by the disease and work as a tailor at KKM, she had five years of schooling before she got to know that she had leprosy and then quit school. They got two children, a boy of eight years old and a girl that is four. The both attend to school quite close to the colony.

KKM, the dyeing section.

In total KKM consist of four different groups which is a home and work for 160 people that is affected by leprosy. Some people have lived and worked at KKM from the beginning of the colonies and some have moved in later, but there are very less people that come to the colonies now a days. The area in the colony is very green and they also grow some vegetables for their own use in the colony. They have sufficient with water and very rare problems with electricity according to Noel. The working hours is usually from 7.30 to 11.30 and then a lunch break until 1.30 and then the working ay is over 17.00. When people are to old or sick to work they are provided with everything that is needed.

Some of the artisans that is working with make yarn at KKM.

- We take care of each other in the society, if someone is sick or too old to take care of themselves their neighbors and other people in the society takes care of them, states Noel.

Text by Lilian Sahlin Pictures by Youdon Tsering