The third WFTO Fair Trade principle is about capacity building of which one branch is design development. For that reason IM Fair Trade have started a collaboration with a designer, Subhatra Sadhu, that should work with three of IM Fair Trades suppliers; KKM, Tibetan Women Center (TWC) and Deykiling Handicraft Center (DHC).
The designer that IM Fair Trade started to work with, Subhatra Sadhu.
- The artisans needs guidance in quality improvement, appropriate technology improvement and proper working environment. Many Fair Trade organizations ignore this and fails in successful marketing. That leads to that the artisans is not provided with a sustainable livelihood, claims the freelance textile designer Subhatra Sadhu.
Sadhu have eight years experience in his field and graduated from Govt College of Fine arts in Chennai and National Institute of design. He have been working with NGO:s that works with livelihood developing programe related to textile industry, artisans supported by development organizations and also worked for high end export companys and boutiques.
From his work in commercial business he learned the importance of quality and time in the craftsector.
- The artisans were working an absolute commercial establishment but I found that many handloom weavers and weaver’s co-operative societies were happy working for the company because of their excellent marketing skills. The two things that were stressed on and were enforced by the company were adherence to quality and time. If these two conditions were met the artisans were never denied their share of profit. And the fact that these were upmarket products sold at a high price in the international market, Sadhu states.
He also worked with three Fair Trade organizations previously as he see as a good experience, even though he does not see any big difference between Fair Trade artisans and non Fair tTade artisans at a grass root level.
- Often Fair Trade and non Fair Trade oganizations can have the same supplier. The rates in weaving and handwork is more or less standardized. The thing that vary the most between organizations is the quality on the products and the intensity of the work, that affects the wages. The basic problem for the artisans is not often low wages but the lack of regular work, Sadhu states.
He also states an opinion that Fair Trade organization in general work too little with product development.
- The process have to follow skill development for artisans, efficient market research have to be done and then design development. Often attempts are made to quickly to market artisans product to earn quick money, Sadhu thinks.
The positive side of Fair Trade Sadhu states is that it gets allot of publicity that leads to that consumers in different countries get more aware of traditional crafts, working conditions and the financially weak status of craftspeople. Fair Trade can lead to a higher appreciation of crafts and then generate higher wages at an artisan level and also that the artisans can get the opportunity to travel and interact with buyers directly. With the close interaction between Fair trade organization and the artisans the artisans can get direct exposure to contemporary markets trends, colors and consumer trends. Barely by just having a Fair Trade certificate leads to empowerment and some kind of accountability that the principles are being followed.
- The Fair Trade guidelines also evoked some conscience in the traders working with marginalized artisans and now are more sensitive to their plight, Sadhu states.
One other problem in craftsector connected with Fair Trade is that the orders for the artisans can be very irregular, that also was discussed at Fair Trade Forum Indias work-shop about fair wages.
- Many artisans in the craftsector is not serious about their livelihood. This can be due to an uncertain view on the sector due to lack of work and sustainability that forced them into other, less skilled, livelihood to support themselves, Sadhu states.
As as designer Sadhu ensure certain criteria while working with artisans groups as such as:
- While working with Fair Trade groups it is important to look at the time it takes to make each product, the cost of the product have to be justified and the wage have to be fair accordingly. Fair Trade can create a false threshold level for the wages that is not adequate for the artisans, so it is important to look at the wages, Sadhu describes.
- Fair Trade organizations have to work continuous with product development and marketing to attract costumers. The craft have to be market as handmade crafts because it is impossible to compete with the price for bulk suppliers and machine made merchandisers, states Sadhu.
The designer, Sadhu, IM:s Fair Tradecoordinator Tsering Youdon and myself met each producer organization in the design project to check with them the available materials and plan the work.
Text and interview made by Lilian Sahlin, Fair Trade volunteer for IM-SOIR 2010.
The designer that IM Fair Trade started to work with, Subhatra Sadhu.
- The artisans needs guidance in quality improvement, appropriate technology improvement and proper working environment. Many Fair Trade organizations ignore this and fails in successful marketing. That leads to that the artisans is not provided with a sustainable livelihood, claims the freelance textile designer Subhatra Sadhu.
Sadhu have eight years experience in his field and graduated from Govt College of Fine arts in Chennai and National Institute of design. He have been working with NGO:s that works with livelihood developing programe related to textile industry, artisans supported by development organizations and also worked for high end export companys and boutiques.
From his work in commercial business he learned the importance of quality and time in the craftsector.
- The artisans were working an absolute commercial establishment but I found that many handloom weavers and weaver’s co-operative societies were happy working for the company because of their excellent marketing skills. The two things that were stressed on and were enforced by the company were adherence to quality and time. If these two conditions were met the artisans were never denied their share of profit. And the fact that these were upmarket products sold at a high price in the international market, Sadhu states.
He also worked with three Fair Trade organizations previously as he see as a good experience, even though he does not see any big difference between Fair Trade artisans and non Fair tTade artisans at a grass root level.
- Often Fair Trade and non Fair Trade oganizations can have the same supplier. The rates in weaving and handwork is more or less standardized. The thing that vary the most between organizations is the quality on the products and the intensity of the work, that affects the wages. The basic problem for the artisans is not often low wages but the lack of regular work, Sadhu states.
He also states an opinion that Fair Trade organization in general work too little with product development.
- The process have to follow skill development for artisans, efficient market research have to be done and then design development. Often attempts are made to quickly to market artisans product to earn quick money, Sadhu thinks.
The positive side of Fair Trade Sadhu states is that it gets allot of publicity that leads to that consumers in different countries get more aware of traditional crafts, working conditions and the financially weak status of craftspeople. Fair Trade can lead to a higher appreciation of crafts and then generate higher wages at an artisan level and also that the artisans can get the opportunity to travel and interact with buyers directly. With the close interaction between Fair trade organization and the artisans the artisans can get direct exposure to contemporary markets trends, colors and consumer trends. Barely by just having a Fair Trade certificate leads to empowerment and some kind of accountability that the principles are being followed.
- The Fair Trade guidelines also evoked some conscience in the traders working with marginalized artisans and now are more sensitive to their plight, Sadhu states.
One other problem in craftsector connected with Fair Trade is that the orders for the artisans can be very irregular, that also was discussed at Fair Trade Forum Indias work-shop about fair wages.
- Many artisans in the craftsector is not serious about their livelihood. This can be due to an uncertain view on the sector due to lack of work and sustainability that forced them into other, less skilled, livelihood to support themselves, Sadhu states.
As as designer Sadhu ensure certain criteria while working with artisans groups as such as:
- That the design is easily understood.
- That the design and product can be made by the artisans.
- That it takes reasonable time to make the product.
- Time managment and quality have to be stressed as important parameters.
- The raw materials have to be easily available.
- Each craft have to retain the identity that makes it unique and stand out in the market.
- There should be an understanding of the market.
- While working with Fair Trade groups it is important to look at the time it takes to make each product, the cost of the product have to be justified and the wage have to be fair accordingly. Fair Trade can create a false threshold level for the wages that is not adequate for the artisans, so it is important to look at the wages, Sadhu describes.
- Fair Trade organizations have to work continuous with product development and marketing to attract costumers. The craft have to be market as handmade crafts because it is impossible to compete with the price for bulk suppliers and machine made merchandisers, states Sadhu.
The designer, Sadhu, IM:s Fair Tradecoordinator Tsering Youdon and myself met each producer organization in the design project to check with them the available materials and plan the work.
Text and interview made by Lilian Sahlin, Fair Trade volunteer for IM-SOIR 2010.
No comments:
Post a Comment